Chair-back heating pad

When I’m at the office, I FREEEEEZE. I have no idea why it has to feel like a meat locker in there, but my secret weapon is a heating pad I attach to my chair. I get the warmth and it doesn’t bother any of the lunatics around me who actually aren’t cold. But if you don’t actually attach it to your chair then it will fall every time you bend over or get up. That’s where being a sewer comes in handy.

Supplies

(Click fabrics for direct links for purchase at Warehouse Fabrics Inc.)

Connoly Metro

3/4" wide elastic

Sew-in Velcro
1/2 yard of fabric was plenty for me, even with fussy cutting and a directional print. Two 22″ pieces of elastic. 10.5″ Velcro.

The pattern

My heating pad measures 11.25″x13.5″, which is probably pretty standard. Here is how you can make a cover to fit any pad:
H + 1″ (seam allowances) = 12.25″ for me
W + 1″ (seam allowances) + 1″ (side hem) = 16.5″ for me

Cut 2 of pieces with those dimensions
Flap = 11.25″x6″
Cut 2 of the flap pieces
2 pieces of elastic 22″ each
1 piece of Velcro 10.5″

1/2 ” seam allowances

The process

Attach one side of your Velcro to the bottom side of your flap. Maybe it doesn’t matter to you which side of your flap faces up or down, so just pick one. Place it about 1.5″ from one long edge. Sew on the Velcro.
Place the flap pieces right-sides together and sew around the two short sides and one long side — the side closest to the Velcro. Use a 1/2″ seam allowance.
Turn right-side out and press, then top-stitch. My tip on top-stitching is to use a longer stitch length for a neater, more even look.
Here is the flap from both sides. There is one raw edge, on the left.
On the bottom side of your cover (the side that will face the chair), place your other Velcro piece about 3-1/4″ from the edge. OK, it probably doesn’t have to be that exact.
On the RIGHT side of the FRONT piece (without the Velcro), place your elastic so that the raw edge lines up with the raw SHORT edge of the cover (on the right side of the cover), and baste in place about 3″ down from the top and bottom. (In other words, two pieces of elastic will run the long ways across the cover, one 3″ from the top, the other 3″ from the bottom). The other end of the elastic remains free for now.
Place your other heating pad piece on the one above, right-sides together. If your piece with the Velcro is underneath, the Velcro should be on the right. You’ll sew around all sides except the right side.
Finish the raw edges by pinking or serging.
Hem the raw edge of your case by turning it under 1/4″ and pressing, then turning and pressing again. Then sew close to the bottom edge.Turn right-side out, poke out corners and press.
In this photo, you’re viewing the outward facing piece. Don’t let the positioning of the elastic trick you. Baste the other end of your elastic to the left edge, as shown.
Finish the raw edge of your flap piece. I serged mine. If you don’t have a serger, zigzag the edge.
Place that newly finished edge with the hemmed edge on the OUTWARD facing part of your bag (the one without the Velcro) and sew to attach flap. I sewed two rows pretty close to the edge.Insert heating pad, fold over flap and flip your elastic bands to the other side. Attach to chair by stretching over the back. The cord of the heating pad should be on one corner and just stick out the corner where the flap is. See photo below on left.

Other views

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